Welt shoe and method of making same



y 1 F. MACCARONE 2,047,697 WELT SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME FiledJan. 6, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 July 14, 1936. F. MACCARONE 2,047,697

WELT SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Jan. 6, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2r 0 7 5 w MM 6 71 v 1 3... 2 z 7/5 a m a s i A 4WNR$ 2 2 a, 2 2 4 7 6 2Watented July 1d, 193% PATENT OFFICE WELT SHOE AND METHOD F MAKING SAMEFred Maccarone, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to The Del-Mac Shoe ProcessCorporation, New York,

Application January 6, 1936, Serial No. 57,715

8 Claims.

My invention relates to welt shoes of the type taught in my U. S. PatentNo. 2,012,914 of August 27, 1935. A principal object of my invention isto provide a light and flexible welt shoe having improved fitting andshape holding qualities and a more resilient bottom construction.

Another principal object is to provide a single soled Welt shoe of thistype having an improved inseam construction, a further object is toprovide a simple, efficient and economical method of producing my newshoe, and other and further objects will appear from the followingspecification. Referring to the drawings which form a part of thisspecification:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a skeleton insole prepared inaccordance with my invention.

Figure 2 .is a perspective view of an outsole having a projection on theforepart thereof formed and positioned to register with the skeletonizedarea of the insole.

Figure 3 is a cross sectional view taken thru the ball portion of theinsole and showing an integral lip member formed thereon and a staymember secured over the insole and having its margins turned up to forma part of the insole lip.

Figure 4 is a similar cross sectional view of the insole and stay membertacked on an appropriate last.

Figure 5 is' a cross sectional view similar to Figure 4 and shows theupper of the shoe lasted and secured to the insole lip.

Figure 6 is a similar cross sectional view which illustrates the mannerin which the insole, the stay, the upper, and a welt are stitchedtogether.

Figure '7 is a similar cross sectional view which shows the finishedsole construction, and

Figure 8 is a perspective view of a finished shoe embodying the featuresof my invention, the toe portion of the shoe being cut off to disclosethe finished relationship of the assembled parts in cross section.

In carrying out my invention 1 provide an insole ill and a largeroutsole 30. The insole has an opening in the forepart at H, the marginsof the opening being skived or bevelled, and the outsole has aprojection 31 on the forepart thereof formed and positioned to registerwith the skeletonized area of the insole. These sole parts arepreferably divisions of a single sole blank and may be formed inaccordance with methods taught in my U. S. Patents Nos. 1,988,281,2,012,913, and 2,012,915.

The insole is split inwardly from its edge at 12 about the shank andforepart to define an inte- (Cll. 12-142) gral marginal leaf N. A staymember 15 of fabric or leather is pasted over the shank and ballportions of the insole, said member conforming to the shape of theinsole and extending to the edges thereof. If desired, the stay membermay be further secured to the insole inwardly of the leaf N by stitchingiii. The leaf together with the adhering portions of the stay member arethen erected to form a lip or rib I8 and to define a feather 26 and amarginal channel i9 outwardly thereof. A standard channel openingmachine may be employed to turn up the lip .HL if desired, in which casethe lip will assume a condition more nearly as shown in broken lines inFigure 3. I

Thus prepared, the insole is secured to a last by the partly driventacks 2| and the margins of an upper 22, including a lining 23, arepulled over the last into the channel is and attached to the lip, as bymeans of "a plurality of staples 2t-2 l, etc., to temporarily hold theupper in lasted relation to the insole. I prefer to apply an appropriateadhesive in the channel to the feather 26 and to the outer wall of thelip and, when this is done, the lip serves effectually to dam theadhesive from flowing over surfaces of the insole where it is notdesired.

Heretofore, in making side lasted shoes, particularly welt shoes, it hasbeen the custom to provide the insole member with an integral lip bychanneling the outer surface of the insole to form two oppositelydisposed channel leaves which'are then turned up and adhesively securedtogether in facing relation. A disadvantage of this method is that itunduly weakens the insole and that the material cut away from thesurface of the insole to provide the inner leaf, forms a gutter inwardlyof the inseam. A further disadvantage is that such lips are notavailable for light flexible constructions in which the insole isskeletonized or is otherwise too frail to support an integral lip ofadequate strength to withstand the strain of the side lastingoperations. Because of this, it has been proposed to attach separate lipmembers to the surface of the insole but, where this has been done, ithas been found that such lip members frequently tend to creep relativeto the sole during the side lasting ofthe shoe with the result that theupper is not evenly and properly pulled over F the last. It will benoted that these disadvantages of prior practices are overcome by mypres ent improvements.

A welt 21 having a flanged inneredge 2B is next positioned in thechannel and is stitched through and through to the marginal edge of theupper and the lip, as illustrated in Figure 6 wherein the stitching isindicated at 29, after which the welt flange, upper and lip are trimmedaway above the stitching 27 and below the staples 24, substantiallyalong the line x-zr of Figure 6.

The upper is lasted to the insole over the heel portion of the shoe bythe usual bed lasting operations because of the counter construction ofthe shoe, and, where the shoe is of box toe construction, I also preferto follow conventional and well known methods of lasting over the toearea.

The outsole 30 is then superimposed and secured in position as shown inFigure 7, the tacks 2i being first removed and a coat of adhesive beingapplied between the outsole and the stay mem her. The outsole is furthersecured to the welt by adhesive or by conventional welt stitching 34, orby both.

In the course of the sole laying operation, the insole including theskived margins of the forepart opening and the central ball area of thestay member l are forced into intimate contact with the last bottom andthe stay member is drawn taut over the outsole projection 3|, tending insome degree to draw the inseam inward and contributing to the shapeholding qualities of the finished shoe. The stay member also serves as alight filler or padding which increases the reslliency of the sole underthe pressure of the foot and, being soft, compensates for any slightirregularities and insures a smooth and even interior withoutappreciably decreasing the flexibility of the shoe.

The remaining steps necessary to complete the shoe, such as theinsertion of a sock lining 32 and the attachment of a heel 33, areperformed in the usual manner.

I claim:

1. A shoe comprising an insole having an opening in the forepartthereof, an outsole having a projection on the forepart thereofregistering with the insole opening, a stay member lying between saidinsole and outsole and overlying said projection, an upper and a weltsecured to the insole and to the margins of saidstay member, and meansuniting the outsole to said welt.

2. A shoe comprising an insole having an opening in the forepartthereof, the margins of said opening being bevelled, an outsole having aprojection on the forepart thereof registering with the insole opening,a stay member lying between said insole and outsole and overlying saidprojection, and a welt secured between the insole and outsole and to themargins of said stay member.

3. A shoe comprising an insole having an opening in the forepartthereof, the margins of said opening being bevelled, an outsole having aprojection on the forepart thereof registering with the insole opening,a stay member lying between said insole and outsole and overlying saidprojection, and an upper held between the insole and outsole and securedto the margins of said stay member.

4. A shoe comprising an insole having an opening in the forepartthereof, an outsole having a projection on the forepart thereofregistering with the insole opening, a stay member lying between saidinsole and outsole and overlying said projection, and an upper securedbetween the insole and outsole to the insole and to the margins of saidstay member.

5. A shoe comprising a light insole skeletonized at the ball portionthereof, a single marginal leaf integral with the insole on theunderside thereof, a stay member underlying the forepart of the insoleto reinforce the skeletonized area thereof and extending to reinforcesaid leaf, an upper and a welt secured to said leaf and to the marginsof the stay member, and an outsole secured to the welt.

6. A shoe comprising a light insole skeletonized at the ball portionthereof, a marginal leaf integral with the insole on the undersidethereof, a stay member underlying the forepart of the insole toreinforce the skeletonized area thereof and extending to reinforce saidleaf, an upper secured to said leaf and to the margins of the staymember, and an outsole secured in underlying relation to said staymember.

7. The method of making a welt shoe which comprises: providing an insolehaving a skeletonized forepart and a single marginal leaf, aflixing astay member over the insole forepart and over the leaf whereby the leafand the skeletonized area of the insole are reinforced, securing anupper and a welt to said leaf and to the margins FRED MACCARONE.

